Have finally managed to get a selection of photos from the trip up.
Malcolm
Thursday, August 23, 2007
Sunday, August 19, 2007
New York State Road Trip - Part 5: Wrap Up
Despite Thursday 16 August being my birthday, decided I would rather drive the 8 hours straight home rather than stopping halfway in Pittsburgh. Write ups of Pittsburgh (eg Lonely Planet) make it sound like a great town but couldn't see anything there that was uniquely different enough to warrant losing a quiet three days at home before heading back to work.
First half of the drive went to plan but afternoon included a 54 minute road block for a truck accident in a work zone, Olivia throwing up three times and Kieren having a massive nose bleed. Each of the latter stops saw all the trucks I had just passed go past us again which didn't help the sense of getting home. But we finally got home at 7pm after 10 hours on the road.
So, overall impressions of the trip:
First half of the drive went to plan but afternoon included a 54 minute road block for a truck accident in a work zone, Olivia throwing up three times and Kieren having a massive nose bleed. Each of the latter stops saw all the trucks I had just passed go past us again which didn't help the sense of getting home. But we finally got home at 7pm after 10 hours on the road.
So, overall impressions of the trip:
- Lake George was ok but perhaps wasn't the best choice to stay to experience the Adirondacks as too much of the land was inaccessible to us and the town was a generic tourist town rather than a more authentic Adirondack town. Although the lack of public spaces was a recurrent theme on the trip.
- Alexandria Bay was great with the pirate days (where else do you get a chance to dress up as a pirate in public!) and the ferry tour of the two castles. If could find better accommodation, would be happy to spend some more time there.
- Loved catching the Ansel Adams exhibition in Rochester.
- Seaway Trail needs much more work to develop products that allow you to find the 'attractions' along the route. Our failure to find the lighthouses was disappointing for us but atrocious for a tourist route. Wonder what they would pay me to redesign their materials for them??!!
- Niagara Falls was more enjoyable this time, being more prepared for what the Falls are about and trying to overlook the over-development.
- Driving was ok, thanks to having a GPS - would be very difficult without one.
- We would have averaged about 28 mpg (US gallons) which is around 33.5 mpg. Petrol seems to have come down in price while we were away. Was $3.05 when we left but tended to pay more around $2.95 away and then had one fill at $2.63 yesterday. Under 70 US cents per litre or 90 Aus cents even given the latest fall in exchange rate. We probably tend to travel a bit slower here as state speed limits are 55 mph and freeways are 65 mph. Usually sat on 75 on the freeways which is about 120 kmh and still had most cars go past me. Although last stint in Maryland was more like 85 mph to keep up with the other traffic in the 55 mph zones!
- The Subaru was a bit small for all of us and our gear. Wished we had brought our roof boot (or roof box as they are called here) over so we could take a bit more (eg boogie boards) and in a bit more comfort. Kids would still be able to reach each other so a divider in the back seat would also have helped at times!
Now just have around 620 photos to sort through!
Malcolm
Saturday, August 18, 2007
New York State Road Trip - Part 4: Niagara Falls
We left Rochester after lunch on Tuesday 14 August and headed to Niagara Falls. While Donna was keen to follow the Seaway Trail again, I had enough of looking for invisible lighthouses so we just took the shortest route up the freeway. State troopers were everywhere on the last part to the border policing the speed limit which is the only place I've really seen it enforced in the States. The border crossing went fine so we were finally in Niagara Falls, Ontario, Canada which offers better views of the Falls that available from the American side.
We stayed in the Oakes Overlooking the Falls and our room had a fantastic view over all three falls. We walked down the kilometre or so to the Maid of the Mist booking offer on Tuesday afternoon. There is an upper and a lower walking track in Niagara Falls, both including many lookout spots along the way. Kodak must have noticed the falls in film revenue just from the photos they were no longer processing from Niagara Falls. Heaps of people and everyone was taking photos.
There are heaps of facts and figures available about the falls. I was surprised on my first visit in 2000 by the fact the falls weren't as tall as I expected and by the amount of development all around the Falls. There isn't a clear area around the Falls, especially on the Canadian side where development has resulted in a range of high hotels etc offering views over the Falls and a sideshow alley feeling on Clifton Hill and surrounding streets. As to the height of the Falls, the Canadian Horseshoe Falls drops an average of 57 m (188 ft) into the Lower Niagara River and is approximately 670 m (2,200 ft) wide, with a 35m (100ft) deep plunge pool beneath the Falls. Found this summary of what the attraction of the Falls is (other than it being on the US / Canadian border of course): 'About 500 other waterfalls in the world are "taller" than Niagara. The Angel Falls in Venezuela is tallest at 979 m (3,212 ft). However, some of the tallest falls in the world have very little water flowing over them. It’s the combination of height and volume that makes Niagara Falls so beautiful.' They are great but I still wasn't blown away as I was by Victoria Falls. By one reckoning, Victoria Falls is the second best waterfall in the world with Niagara Falls ranked fifth. It is impressive!
We lined up for the Maid of the Mist tour, including the lovely blue ponchos that you are issued with: 'For more than 150 years, the Niagara Falls Maid of the Mist has taken visitors through the foaming waters beneath the falls. The journey begins at the bottom of the Observation Tower, where you’ll be provided with a souvenir rain poncho. The Maid of the Mist will then take you to the base of the American Falls and then to the basin of Horseshoe Falls, through the crashing waters and massive rock formations. This half-hour Niagara Falls tour allows you to experience firsthand the power and intensity of the falls.' We stayed on the lower deck of the Maid as Kieren was a bit dubious about the trip. Olivia really enjoyed it. Kieren did until towards the end when he became unhappy at being wet, despite the water only being on his poncho. The Maid gives a good sense of the power of the water flow, with the engines working hard to just stay in place under the Falls with the roar and spray from the Falls all around you.
Tuesday was also momentous in food terms. After our Italian dinner we managed the first (and only) day on this road trip where at least one of us didn't eat fries. That is a major accomplishment here, especially in the smaller towns where the range of restaurants is much more limited than it would be in a similar Australian town. Niagara Falls didn't have any Asian (other than one Indian), Mexican or European style restaurants. Preference seems to be for huge quantities of bland (often fried) food in return for certainty in what you are getting, hence the success of the various chain restaurants. Fortunately the DC area does offer a much better range of options!
More photos and Falls viewing filled our evening as we walked back via the lower trail, paid $2 each for the Falls Incline Railway (expensive solution to get people up 100 feet but no stairs or alternative in the area so can wait up to half an hour to get up to the next street!) up to our hotel where we watched the evening light show on the Falls.
We had planned to catch up with Tom Kerr on Monday evening but his work intervened. However we followed his tip on Wednesday and drove out to the small tourist town of Niagara on the Lake with a stop at the Floral Clock on the way. Checked out Lake Ontario (again) and spent quite some time finding a car park, something the town is notorious for. Spent a couple of pleasant hours wandering the shops before caving in to the incessant demands for ice cream.
Found the Niagara Whirlpool on the way back. Signposting is all for the Spanish Aerocar so you can go over the Whirlpool so this wasn't as easy as it should have been.
Had an early dinner at the Table Rock Centre overlooking the Falls while waiting to do the Journey Behind the Falls. This involves taking an elevator down to tunnels which come out about 2/3 of the way down the Canadian Falls. There's an observatory platform(very wet!) and two direct tunnel outlets where you can just see the water from the Falls rushing down past you. Offers a great perspective on the Falls, even if Kieren didn't appreciate it as it was all too wet for him again. Was also too wet for the Sony DSLR which stopped working as wasn't as water tolerant as I hoped it was. Some drying overnight had it working again the next day, much to my relief, so I could take some more photos of the Falls from our room again. Each day we were there the mist from the Falls was greater / higher so the perspective differed.
The extra night we had to take in Alexandria Bay also benefited us in being at Niagara Falls for the Wednesday night fireworks. The Falls are lit up at 9pm each night and the fireworks this night were at 10pm. Again made the extra we paid for the room worthwhile. Although we were disappointed that our fourth phone call to room service over 50 minutes was to cancel our wine order that they had still failed to deliver. While used to taxes etc inflating costs over here, we thought the hotels' achievement in inflating the nightly charge from C$199 to C$235 with state and provincial taxes plus regional promotional fees was worthy of a special commendation!
Malcolm
We stayed in the Oakes Overlooking the Falls and our room had a fantastic view over all three falls. We walked down the kilometre or so to the Maid of the Mist booking offer on Tuesday afternoon. There is an upper and a lower walking track in Niagara Falls, both including many lookout spots along the way. Kodak must have noticed the falls in film revenue just from the photos they were no longer processing from Niagara Falls. Heaps of people and everyone was taking photos.
There are heaps of facts and figures available about the falls. I was surprised on my first visit in 2000 by the fact the falls weren't as tall as I expected and by the amount of development all around the Falls. There isn't a clear area around the Falls, especially on the Canadian side where development has resulted in a range of high hotels etc offering views over the Falls and a sideshow alley feeling on Clifton Hill and surrounding streets. As to the height of the Falls, the Canadian Horseshoe Falls drops an average of 57 m (188 ft) into the Lower Niagara River and is approximately 670 m (2,200 ft) wide, with a 35m (100ft) deep plunge pool beneath the Falls. Found this summary of what the attraction of the Falls is (other than it being on the US / Canadian border of course): 'About 500 other waterfalls in the world are "taller" than Niagara. The Angel Falls in Venezuela is tallest at 979 m (3,212 ft). However, some of the tallest falls in the world have very little water flowing over them. It’s the combination of height and volume that makes Niagara Falls so beautiful.' They are great but I still wasn't blown away as I was by Victoria Falls. By one reckoning, Victoria Falls is the second best waterfall in the world with Niagara Falls ranked fifth. It is impressive!
We lined up for the Maid of the Mist tour, including the lovely blue ponchos that you are issued with: 'For more than 150 years, the Niagara Falls Maid of the Mist has taken visitors through the foaming waters beneath the falls. The journey begins at the bottom of the Observation Tower, where you’ll be provided with a souvenir rain poncho. The Maid of the Mist will then take you to the base of the American Falls and then to the basin of Horseshoe Falls, through the crashing waters and massive rock formations. This half-hour Niagara Falls tour allows you to experience firsthand the power and intensity of the falls.' We stayed on the lower deck of the Maid as Kieren was a bit dubious about the trip. Olivia really enjoyed it. Kieren did until towards the end when he became unhappy at being wet, despite the water only being on his poncho. The Maid gives a good sense of the power of the water flow, with the engines working hard to just stay in place under the Falls with the roar and spray from the Falls all around you.
Tuesday was also momentous in food terms. After our Italian dinner we managed the first (and only) day on this road trip where at least one of us didn't eat fries. That is a major accomplishment here, especially in the smaller towns where the range of restaurants is much more limited than it would be in a similar Australian town. Niagara Falls didn't have any Asian (other than one Indian), Mexican or European style restaurants. Preference seems to be for huge quantities of bland (often fried) food in return for certainty in what you are getting, hence the success of the various chain restaurants. Fortunately the DC area does offer a much better range of options!
More photos and Falls viewing filled our evening as we walked back via the lower trail, paid $2 each for the Falls Incline Railway (expensive solution to get people up 100 feet but no stairs or alternative in the area so can wait up to half an hour to get up to the next street!) up to our hotel where we watched the evening light show on the Falls.
We had planned to catch up with Tom Kerr on Monday evening but his work intervened. However we followed his tip on Wednesday and drove out to the small tourist town of Niagara on the Lake with a stop at the Floral Clock on the way. Checked out Lake Ontario (again) and spent quite some time finding a car park, something the town is notorious for. Spent a couple of pleasant hours wandering the shops before caving in to the incessant demands for ice cream.
Found the Niagara Whirlpool on the way back. Signposting is all for the Spanish Aerocar so you can go over the Whirlpool so this wasn't as easy as it should have been.
Had an early dinner at the Table Rock Centre overlooking the Falls while waiting to do the Journey Behind the Falls. This involves taking an elevator down to tunnels which come out about 2/3 of the way down the Canadian Falls. There's an observatory platform(very wet!) and two direct tunnel outlets where you can just see the water from the Falls rushing down past you. Offers a great perspective on the Falls, even if Kieren didn't appreciate it as it was all too wet for him again. Was also too wet for the Sony DSLR which stopped working as wasn't as water tolerant as I hoped it was. Some drying overnight had it working again the next day, much to my relief, so I could take some more photos of the Falls from our room again. Each day we were there the mist from the Falls was greater / higher so the perspective differed.
The extra night we had to take in Alexandria Bay also benefited us in being at Niagara Falls for the Wednesday night fireworks. The Falls are lit up at 9pm each night and the fireworks this night were at 10pm. Again made the extra we paid for the room worthwhile. Although we were disappointed that our fourth phone call to room service over 50 minutes was to cancel our wine order that they had still failed to deliver. While used to taxes etc inflating costs over here, we thought the hotels' achievement in inflating the nightly charge from C$199 to C$235 with state and provincial taxes plus regional promotional fees was worthy of a special commendation!
Malcolm
Friday, August 17, 2007
New York State Road Trip - Part 3: Rochester
On Monday 13 August, we left Alexandria Bay (yay for surviving Ledges' worst room!) to head to Rochester along the Seaway Trail again.
This involved a number of smaller towns and the obligatory searches for the invisible lighthouses. Like other days, there were also a range of battlefields which we passed, many from the War of 1812 which was signposted along the Seaway Trail. However like many, they are basically fields today, some with a few explanatory materials around them. However as they didn't mean much to us, we tended to avoid them. This included a number of forts including the one at Lake George and at Oswega today.
We did manage to see some lighthouses today! Main one was the Sodus Bay Lighthouse which was accompanied by views across Lake Ontario. Our visit was curtailed by Olivia suddenly screaming and hopping around. A bee had managed to get inside her croc and bit her twice on the foot trying to escape. Some pain relief and an ice pack settled the pain and her down enough for us to continue. We are thinking of renaming the first aid kit as Olivia's pain relief kit as that seems to be what it is used for! So in our first four months in the States, both kids have now managed to get bitten by bees!
Stayed at the Clarion Hotel Riverside in Rochester. A multi storey corporate style hotel where everything worked and the beds were ok again! Like most US hotels, the room was lacking a kettle (only had a coffeemaker) and for the first time on this trip, we didn't even have a fridge in the room. Don't understand the latter when they must cost around $50 max here.
Downtown Rochester seemed to be mostly under renovation (like our hotel) or deserted (like the Midcity Plaza). Had dinner at Dinosaur Bar B Que which is a 'genuine honky tonk rib joint'! More protein than you can poke a stick at, good range of sauces from mild to very hot and good music as well. Waitress had trouble opening our bottle of wine and commented that somehow she seemed to sell a bottle of wine every Monday night. Taking the hint that we were in a beer consumption area, I had one of their 4 beer trays which is a wooden ladle with four small beers of your choice, equivalent to a pint for the same price. Excellent idea that the Brickskeller could learn from.
Tuesday morning was a split operation. I dropped Donna and the kids off at the Strong National Museum of Play which claims that it is: "(r)ecognized as one of the nation’s top museums for families and children, Strong National Museum of Play® is home to the National Toy Hall of Fame® and the world’s largest collection of toys, dolls, games and other items that celebrate play. It’s unlike anything you’ve experienced anywhere!" Not sure about the latter but the kids had a great morning.
I used my escape time to visit George Eastman House. This is the Eastman of Kodak fame and their summary of what the House is about is: "George Eastman House International Museum of Photography and Film combines the world’s leading collections of photography and film with the stately pleasures of the landmark Colonial Revival mansion and gardens that George Eastman called home from 1905 to 1932. The Museum is a National Historic Landmark. Mr. Eastman, the founder of Eastman Kodak Company, is heralded as the father of modern photography and the inventor of motion picture film."
I didn't have time to tour the place as I wanted to see the 'Ansel Adams: Celebration of Genius' exhibition: 'George Eastman House International Museum of Photography and Film presents the largest Ansel Adams exhibition in its six-decade history, featuring many photographs Adams gave personally to the museum. Inspired by the 100th anniversary of the birth of Ansel Adams (1902-1984), George Eastman House revisited its extensive collection of Adams’s work and created an exhibition of 150 photographs that reflects his full career. Ansel Adams: Celebration of Genius opened in Spain and has been touring the United States, breaking attendance records at each venue. Prior to its final destination in 2008 in Scotland, the exhibition comes home to George Eastman House this spring and summer, May 12 through Sept. 3. ... Ansel Adams: Celebration of Genius presents work from the 1920s through the 1960s. Featured are many of Adams’s most famous images of the American West — Moonrise, Hernandez, New Mexico, 1941, Mount Williamson from Manzanar, California, ca. 1944, and Monolith, the Face of Half Dome, 1927. But prepare to discover equally impressive (if lesser-known) images such as Mud Hills, Arizona or Water and Foam, or the wonderful abstract titled simply, Stained Wallpaper Near Alturas, Calif.'
I missed seeing his photos both times I've been in San Francisco (gallery closed on Sundays in 2000 and then permanently closed in 2002!) so was great to see the prints finally. Biggest impression was the difference between a direct copy of the negative of Moonrise, Hernandez, New Mexico and a print of that photo. The amount of burning (darkening) on the sky and the dodging (lightening) of the area around the crosses was much more than I expected. Adams always referred to his negatives as the 'score' and the print as the 'performance' but I didn't realise how much difference he made in the darkroom. Had to buy 'printed in Hong Kong' copies of Moonrise, Hernandez, New Mexico and Moon and Half Dome, Yosemite National Park, California even though seeing originals makes the difference in these more obvious - even if they are authorised editions! Also picked up a copy of PBS's Ansel Adams DVD which was playing in the exhibition and looked quite good. A very enjoyable morning and will have to sit down with my copy of Examples: The making of 40 photographs to see if I understand it a bit more now before I see another Ansel Adams exhibition at the Corcoran Gallery in DC in a month or so ...
Malcolm
This involved a number of smaller towns and the obligatory searches for the invisible lighthouses. Like other days, there were also a range of battlefields which we passed, many from the War of 1812 which was signposted along the Seaway Trail. However like many, they are basically fields today, some with a few explanatory materials around them. However as they didn't mean much to us, we tended to avoid them. This included a number of forts including the one at Lake George and at Oswega today.
We did manage to see some lighthouses today! Main one was the Sodus Bay Lighthouse which was accompanied by views across Lake Ontario. Our visit was curtailed by Olivia suddenly screaming and hopping around. A bee had managed to get inside her croc and bit her twice on the foot trying to escape. Some pain relief and an ice pack settled the pain and her down enough for us to continue. We are thinking of renaming the first aid kit as Olivia's pain relief kit as that seems to be what it is used for! So in our first four months in the States, both kids have now managed to get bitten by bees!
Stayed at the Clarion Hotel Riverside in Rochester. A multi storey corporate style hotel where everything worked and the beds were ok again! Like most US hotels, the room was lacking a kettle (only had a coffeemaker) and for the first time on this trip, we didn't even have a fridge in the room. Don't understand the latter when they must cost around $50 max here.
Downtown Rochester seemed to be mostly under renovation (like our hotel) or deserted (like the Midcity Plaza). Had dinner at Dinosaur Bar B Que which is a 'genuine honky tonk rib joint'! More protein than you can poke a stick at, good range of sauces from mild to very hot and good music as well. Waitress had trouble opening our bottle of wine and commented that somehow she seemed to sell a bottle of wine every Monday night. Taking the hint that we were in a beer consumption area, I had one of their 4 beer trays which is a wooden ladle with four small beers of your choice, equivalent to a pint for the same price. Excellent idea that the Brickskeller could learn from.
Tuesday morning was a split operation. I dropped Donna and the kids off at the Strong National Museum of Play which claims that it is: "(r)ecognized as one of the nation’s top museums for families and children, Strong National Museum of Play® is home to the National Toy Hall of Fame® and the world’s largest collection of toys, dolls, games and other items that celebrate play. It’s unlike anything you’ve experienced anywhere!" Not sure about the latter but the kids had a great morning.
I used my escape time to visit George Eastman House. This is the Eastman of Kodak fame and their summary of what the House is about is: "George Eastman House International Museum of Photography and Film combines the world’s leading collections of photography and film with the stately pleasures of the landmark Colonial Revival mansion and gardens that George Eastman called home from 1905 to 1932. The Museum is a National Historic Landmark. Mr. Eastman, the founder of Eastman Kodak Company, is heralded as the father of modern photography and the inventor of motion picture film."
I didn't have time to tour the place as I wanted to see the 'Ansel Adams: Celebration of Genius' exhibition: 'George Eastman House International Museum of Photography and Film presents the largest Ansel Adams exhibition in its six-decade history, featuring many photographs Adams gave personally to the museum. Inspired by the 100th anniversary of the birth of Ansel Adams (1902-1984), George Eastman House revisited its extensive collection of Adams’s work and created an exhibition of 150 photographs that reflects his full career. Ansel Adams: Celebration of Genius opened in Spain and has been touring the United States, breaking attendance records at each venue. Prior to its final destination in 2008 in Scotland, the exhibition comes home to George Eastman House this spring and summer, May 12 through Sept. 3. ... Ansel Adams: Celebration of Genius presents work from the 1920s through the 1960s. Featured are many of Adams’s most famous images of the American West — Moonrise, Hernandez, New Mexico, 1941, Mount Williamson from Manzanar, California, ca. 1944, and Monolith, the Face of Half Dome, 1927. But prepare to discover equally impressive (if lesser-known) images such as Mud Hills, Arizona or Water and Foam, or the wonderful abstract titled simply, Stained Wallpaper Near Alturas, Calif.'
I missed seeing his photos both times I've been in San Francisco (gallery closed on Sundays in 2000 and then permanently closed in 2002!) so was great to see the prints finally. Biggest impression was the difference between a direct copy of the negative of Moonrise, Hernandez, New Mexico and a print of that photo. The amount of burning (darkening) on the sky and the dodging (lightening) of the area around the crosses was much more than I expected. Adams always referred to his negatives as the 'score' and the print as the 'performance' but I didn't realise how much difference he made in the darkroom. Had to buy 'printed in Hong Kong' copies of Moonrise, Hernandez, New Mexico and Moon and Half Dome, Yosemite National Park, California even though seeing originals makes the difference in these more obvious - even if they are authorised editions! Also picked up a copy of PBS's Ansel Adams DVD which was playing in the exhibition and looked quite good. A very enjoyable morning and will have to sit down with my copy of Examples: The making of 40 photographs to see if I understand it a bit more now before I see another Ansel Adams exhibition at the Corcoran Gallery in DC in a month or so ...
Malcolm
Monday, August 13, 2007
New York State Road Trip - Part 2: Alexandria Bay
With a chipmunk running through the Resort's playground remaining the only living non-bird life we saw around Lake George, we left on Friday to head up to The Seaway Trail, running along the US side of the St Laurence River down to Lake Ontario. (Given we have squirrels, a fair few birds and the odd secretive chipmunk in our Chevy Chase backyard, this was a disappointing part of our Lake George adventures.)
We drove up through the Adirondacks through Lake Placid. Looked a more 'authentic' town than the tourist shop filled Lake George township, but shared the lack of parking. Didn't see any Lake but did see the lifts for the ski jumps. Still the base for the US winter teams, no doubt with better facilities since the 1980 winter Olympics. Lots of small lakes (tarns!) on the side of the road driving north and scenery was generally much more picturesque and enjoyable than the over development around Lake George.
We commenced the Seaway Trail at its beginning in Rooseveltown. Kinda missed the town (assume it is there somewhere) and headed down to the Eisenhower Lock. Supposed to be impressive when the large ships go overhead as you drive through the tunnel under the lock. Next sailing was two hours away and was just like any other loch. Enjoyed a picnic lunch in Robert Moses State Park, after u-turning away from the $7 parking at the Park's beach.
One of the attractions of the Seaway Trail for us was the large number of lighthouses along the Trail given how much Kieren was taken by the lighthouse on Chincoteague Island. But in what was to become a theme of the trip, we couldn't find the two lighthouses down the Trail to our hotel in Alexandria Bay. This is due (we think) to a combination of the directions we have to the lighthouses being a bit general; some of the lighthouses being private so are 'disguised' from land based traffic; and the lack of access to water frontage land here for the general public. This has been another theme for us. All the land down to the water, and often over it, is privately owned with vast stretches lacking in general reserves or other public access. This is something we take so much for granted in Australia it has come as a bit of a shock to be kept off the foreshore here.
We wanted to stay for only two nights in Alexandria Bay but after around a dozen fully booked hotels, Donna finally agreed to three nights at what must have been the last room in town. We'll give Ledges the benefit of the doubt as it was the last room we would have chosen to stay in, let alone be there for three nights. Hard to imagine a more worn out room which, together with the awful musty smell, was enticement to keep us out and going for a couple of very full days. (They have some great new floating villas as well - our room was the middle one of three with the floating part sinking below the non-floating part with associated sag etc and seemed to be the only room yet to be renovated.) Having a yapping lapdog in the rooms each side of us didn't help either. Don't understand why US and Canadian hotels allow dogs in their rooms but seems to be a widely accepted practice.
We found out that the reason for the three night stipulation wasn't the room quality but the fact that this weekend was Bill Johnston's Pirate Days:
"Bill Johnston was a renegade after the patriots war, who blew up the British steamer, Sir Robert Peel, hid among the 1000 Islands, and was hunted by both U.S. and Canadian authorities. The annual Bill Johnston's Pirates Days celebration commemorates some of his exploits. Fill your senses with the sound and spectacle when pirate ships attack the village from the St. Lawrence River, as the brave villagers try to stave them off. The air is filled with smoke and the sound of musket fire and cannon, and eventually the villagers succumb as the pirates invade the town. After the mayor turns over the key to the village to the invading marauders, everyone becomes a pirate."
We headed into town for dinner on Friday night to find a packed little village with everyone wearing pirate t-shirts, bandannas and packing plastic pistols and swords. Of course some went much further in the dress stakes which just added to the atmosphere. After dinner we kitted our little pirates out in gear so they were ready for the pirate invasion on Saturday. Dinner was at Captains Landing with views across the river to Boldt Castle and the passing parade of high performance boats.
After breakfast on a picnic table overlooking Ledges' marina (out of our room!) we headed into town for the kids to join the craft session. When it was time to leave for the kids' parade into town, lead by the British soldiers and with a fair sprinkling of full on pirates as well as all the parent and little pirates, our kids were the two that didn't want to leave making their pirate ships! Eventually dragged them away but they were straight back into it when the parade arrived back at Scenic View Park. The promise of lunch and the fact that everything was being packed up around them finally got them away. They got involved in a number of street skirmishes on the way back into town, mainly with grandparently type pirates who were having as much fun as the kids with their toy swords. After lunch we watched the pirate invasion and fighting with the guards leading to their capture of the key to the city. Cannon and musket firing added to the spectacle which concluded with the pirates throwing their captured booty (bead necklaces) into the crowd. Was a good fun day enjoyed by all and the lack of pirates on Saturday evening resulted in a noticeable deflation in the spirit of the town. Though hopefully the tills of the local shopkeepers who support the events kept ringing. Sales of pirate gear on Friday night were crazy!
On Saturday afternoon, we drove a bit further down the Seaway Trail to explore the smaller towns of Fishers Landing and Clayton. We again searched in vain for the promised lighthouses as well. In Clayton we even had a street name which Lizzie directed us to but no lighthouse was to be seen. Shopping in touristy shops and an icecream had to suffice before returning to Alexandria Bay and dinner at Captains Landing again.
We drove up through the Adirondacks through Lake Placid. Looked a more 'authentic' town than the tourist shop filled Lake George township, but shared the lack of parking. Didn't see any Lake but did see the lifts for the ski jumps. Still the base for the US winter teams, no doubt with better facilities since the 1980 winter Olympics. Lots of small lakes (tarns!) on the side of the road driving north and scenery was generally much more picturesque and enjoyable than the over development around Lake George.
We commenced the Seaway Trail at its beginning in Rooseveltown. Kinda missed the town (assume it is there somewhere) and headed down to the Eisenhower Lock. Supposed to be impressive when the large ships go overhead as you drive through the tunnel under the lock. Next sailing was two hours away and was just like any other loch. Enjoyed a picnic lunch in Robert Moses State Park, after u-turning away from the $7 parking at the Park's beach.
One of the attractions of the Seaway Trail for us was the large number of lighthouses along the Trail given how much Kieren was taken by the lighthouse on Chincoteague Island. But in what was to become a theme of the trip, we couldn't find the two lighthouses down the Trail to our hotel in Alexandria Bay. This is due (we think) to a combination of the directions we have to the lighthouses being a bit general; some of the lighthouses being private so are 'disguised' from land based traffic; and the lack of access to water frontage land here for the general public. This has been another theme for us. All the land down to the water, and often over it, is privately owned with vast stretches lacking in general reserves or other public access. This is something we take so much for granted in Australia it has come as a bit of a shock to be kept off the foreshore here.
We wanted to stay for only two nights in Alexandria Bay but after around a dozen fully booked hotels, Donna finally agreed to three nights at what must have been the last room in town. We'll give Ledges the benefit of the doubt as it was the last room we would have chosen to stay in, let alone be there for three nights. Hard to imagine a more worn out room which, together with the awful musty smell, was enticement to keep us out and going for a couple of very full days. (They have some great new floating villas as well - our room was the middle one of three with the floating part sinking below the non-floating part with associated sag etc and seemed to be the only room yet to be renovated.) Having a yapping lapdog in the rooms each side of us didn't help either. Don't understand why US and Canadian hotels allow dogs in their rooms but seems to be a widely accepted practice.
We found out that the reason for the three night stipulation wasn't the room quality but the fact that this weekend was Bill Johnston's Pirate Days:
"Bill Johnston was a renegade after the patriots war, who blew up the British steamer, Sir Robert Peel, hid among the 1000 Islands, and was hunted by both U.S. and Canadian authorities. The annual Bill Johnston's Pirates Days celebration commemorates some of his exploits. Fill your senses with the sound and spectacle when pirate ships attack the village from the St. Lawrence River, as the brave villagers try to stave them off. The air is filled with smoke and the sound of musket fire and cannon, and eventually the villagers succumb as the pirates invade the town. After the mayor turns over the key to the village to the invading marauders, everyone becomes a pirate."
We headed into town for dinner on Friday night to find a packed little village with everyone wearing pirate t-shirts, bandannas and packing plastic pistols and swords. Of course some went much further in the dress stakes which just added to the atmosphere. After dinner we kitted our little pirates out in gear so they were ready for the pirate invasion on Saturday. Dinner was at Captains Landing with views across the river to Boldt Castle and the passing parade of high performance boats.
After breakfast on a picnic table overlooking Ledges' marina (out of our room!) we headed into town for the kids to join the craft session. When it was time to leave for the kids' parade into town, lead by the British soldiers and with a fair sprinkling of full on pirates as well as all the parent and little pirates, our kids were the two that didn't want to leave making their pirate ships! Eventually dragged them away but they were straight back into it when the parade arrived back at Scenic View Park. The promise of lunch and the fact that everything was being packed up around them finally got them away. They got involved in a number of street skirmishes on the way back into town, mainly with grandparently type pirates who were having as much fun as the kids with their toy swords. After lunch we watched the pirate invasion and fighting with the guards leading to their capture of the key to the city. Cannon and musket firing added to the spectacle which concluded with the pirates throwing their captured booty (bead necklaces) into the crowd. Was a good fun day enjoyed by all and the lack of pirates on Saturday evening resulted in a noticeable deflation in the spirit of the town. Though hopefully the tills of the local shopkeepers who support the events kept ringing. Sales of pirate gear on Friday night were crazy!
On Saturday afternoon, we drove a bit further down the Seaway Trail to explore the smaller towns of Fishers Landing and Clayton. We again searched in vain for the promised lighthouses as well. In Clayton we even had a street name which Lizzie directed us to but no lighthouse was to be seen. Shopping in touristy shops and an icecream had to suffice before returning to Alexandria Bay and dinner at Captains Landing again.
On Sunday we went on Uncle Sam's Cruises' Singer Castle Tour, which was the primary reason for choosing to stay in Alexandria Bay. This was a three and a half hour tour down the St Laurence River, through many of the Thousand Islands (actually close to 1800 islands but was too hard to rename the dressing when they finally did a complete count) to Singer Castle. Frederick Gilbert Bourne made his fortune selling Singer sewing machines on the first time payment plan of $1 per week for 42 weeks. Impressive castle and grounds which were bought by a German investment group a couple of years back for $1.7m and with $2m spent on them since. Now up for sale for $25m with an offer of $17.5m having been received. Lot of original furniture from Bourne and his youngest daughter who inherited the property still in the castle which added a lot to the understanding of how they lived. American beaux-arts architect Ernest Flagg (1857 - 1947) designed the Castle after inspiration from Sir Walter Scott's novel about Woodstock Castle (1832) in Scotland. The design follows the descriptions, right down to the secret passages and portraits with eyes cut out to allow spying into the room!
The tour then took us back up the River to what is the central focus point of tourist operations in this area of the river – Boldt Castle. George C. Boldt made his fortune as proprietor of the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel in New York City. He bought Hart Island, renamed it Heart Island and had the shape changed to resemble a heart. Boldt Castle was designed as a token of his love for his wife. However she died before the Castle was finished. The story is that he then sent a telegram instructing all work to cease and he never set foot on the Island again. The Castle was allowed to run down until the Thousand Islands Bridge Authority acquired the property in 1977. All revenues since then have been used to gradually restore the Castle. The ground level has been largely taken up to the marble etc standards that were intended with much of the other floors still suffering from weather and vandal damage. The externals of the Castle are now weatherproof and the three main outbuildings are back in pretty good condition. There is also a massive boathouse on the shore opposite the Island which took much of his fleet including a tall masted steam yacht and a range of wooden speedboats which he chased speed records with.
The range of private boats on the River are also worth noting. Twin 454s in large speedboats were fairly common although outdone by the numbers of jet skis. The tour guide on our ferry ride was telling us about one guy who has twin helicopter engines in his catamaran! The money involved was amazing, as no doubt is their 'gas' bill. The filling station at the marina opposite where we breakfasted each morning was flat out on Saturday and Sunday mornings.
Day concluded with the kids getting their swim in the hotel's pool before dinner in town. It was a great stay in Alexandria Bay, spoilt only by our hotel room and the aching backs given to us both from the awful mattress and pillows.
Malcolm
Thursday, August 9, 2007
New York State Road Trip - Part 1
We drove out of our driveway at 8.50am on Sunday 5 August 2007 for a planned road trip up through the Adirondacks, along the Seaway Trail to Niagara Falls and then back home again.
Sunday was our major driving day of the trip. Close to 7.5 hours up to Lake George. Drive wasn't too bad with only a couple of delays due to traffic. Route took us through the outskirts of New York City (could see the city centre skyline to the east of us) which we thought may have been a problem but was fine. We did note some differences between the route from our TomTom GPS (Lizzie) and the printed directions from Google Maps. We tend to think that Google is a bit more up to date given one spot where we could just have used an exit to get straight onto a major highway rather than the multiple turns that Lizzie presented us with.
Rather than traffic, it was the tolls which surprised us. In the 424 miles, we went through 4 tolls for total charges of $16.85.
We were booked into the Colonel Williams Resort from Sunday to Friday. We were a bit dubious as the place has a range of reviews online from excellent to atrocious. We now are in the excellent category as the place is spotlessly clean, quiet and has a great playground, games room and pools (although inside pool is a bit cold, made up by a crystal clear warm outside pool). The bad reviews are due to run ins with the owner who has imposed more than the usual range of rules around the place eg quiet time from 10pm to 9am and no juice boxes (as they stain the carpets when kids inevitably spill them). While a bit over the top and we have been aware of the 'watching' happening around the resort, the end result has been a very pleasant stay.
As part of recovering from Sunday's drive and the cooler weather (ie couldn't wear shorts and t-shirts!), Monday was a quieter day. Drove around the Lake a bit and tried to get our bearings. Blown away by some of the houses around Lake George, down to the covered boat houses complete with a big modern speedboat and a historic wooden speedboat.
On Tuesday we took the kids to The Magic Forest which is a kiddie fun park. Place was a bit tired and some more maintenance would have helped. But the kids didn't notice any of that and had a wonderful day running around from ride to ride. Wasn't crowded so virtually no waits added to the fun. Also had animal enclosures, including deer and reindeer, complete with namings as each of Santa's reindeer. Some of the other attractions there were of historic significance, including Snow White from the 1934 World Fair in NYC and the world's biggest Uncle Sam from a 1981 show somewhere. We also watched 'The Magic of Jimmy Brown' magic show and then walked down to watch the US's only diving horse. You had to be there for that one ... Some of the design of the places was a bit dated, like the 'safari tour' on a train behind a covered old tractor past a heap of plastic animals etc around the bitumen trail. Dinner was at Caldwell House just a short walk up from our resort. I had scallops stuffed with clams etc. Beautiful and the fact that they were stuffed should indicate that they were a size above Tas scallops. It only took three to make a meal. Understand they were from Boston.
Wednesday was supposed to be fine but the overnight rain continued a bit later than it has to date so we had fog around the mountains. Decided to keep going on our planned cruise around Lake George on the Mohican. This was the only trip that goes around the full Lake, just under 5 hours to cover the navigable part of the 32 miles of the Lake and back. Got to see a lot more of the Lake and the development around it. Most of the Lake edge has been sold off over the years so it is hard to access the Lake edge from the land unless you own or are staying at a place with water frontage. Apparently water frontage is currently going for at least $10000 per linear foot. Most of the old mansions have had most of their associated land holdings sold off due to the value. Many of the islands on the Lake are either privately owned with homes etc on them or owned by NY state. Most of the latter are designated either day picnic areas or camping usage - about $18 per night. Money and popularity of place has had an impact. They are now building up on the slopes around the Lake so even the natural areas around the Lake don't have unspoilt vistas. There is one island on the Lake owned by the Nature Conservancy(?) which is kept totally natural and no usage is allowed. Natural areas here are densely packed forests of a fairly uniform dark green. Found it makes a sameness so not great for photography. That sameness made the length of the tour a bit long, although going back through the original millionaires row shows that this has been a resort area of choice for over a century now. Lake was also busy with their boats today. An area where those with money come to enjoy and relax! We saw a flock of Canadian geese during the tour. This is only noteworthy as there has been a near total absence of wildlife, other than a few flies, seen in this area. Presumably a factor of human development but even the lack of bird life is strange. There is also a large climate variation which may have some impact. In winter, the Lake is under around 3 foot of ice which is also why most of the businesses and homes here are only open over the summer months.
Sunday was our major driving day of the trip. Close to 7.5 hours up to Lake George. Drive wasn't too bad with only a couple of delays due to traffic. Route took us through the outskirts of New York City (could see the city centre skyline to the east of us) which we thought may have been a problem but was fine. We did note some differences between the route from our TomTom GPS (Lizzie) and the printed directions from Google Maps. We tend to think that Google is a bit more up to date given one spot where we could just have used an exit to get straight onto a major highway rather than the multiple turns that Lizzie presented us with.
Rather than traffic, it was the tolls which surprised us. In the 424 miles, we went through 4 tolls for total charges of $16.85.
We were booked into the Colonel Williams Resort from Sunday to Friday. We were a bit dubious as the place has a range of reviews online from excellent to atrocious. We now are in the excellent category as the place is spotlessly clean, quiet and has a great playground, games room and pools (although inside pool is a bit cold, made up by a crystal clear warm outside pool). The bad reviews are due to run ins with the owner who has imposed more than the usual range of rules around the place eg quiet time from 10pm to 9am and no juice boxes (as they stain the carpets when kids inevitably spill them). While a bit over the top and we have been aware of the 'watching' happening around the resort, the end result has been a very pleasant stay.
As part of recovering from Sunday's drive and the cooler weather (ie couldn't wear shorts and t-shirts!), Monday was a quieter day. Drove around the Lake a bit and tried to get our bearings. Blown away by some of the houses around Lake George, down to the covered boat houses complete with a big modern speedboat and a historic wooden speedboat.
On Tuesday we took the kids to The Magic Forest which is a kiddie fun park. Place was a bit tired and some more maintenance would have helped. But the kids didn't notice any of that and had a wonderful day running around from ride to ride. Wasn't crowded so virtually no waits added to the fun. Also had animal enclosures, including deer and reindeer, complete with namings as each of Santa's reindeer. Some of the other attractions there were of historic significance, including Snow White from the 1934 World Fair in NYC and the world's biggest Uncle Sam from a 1981 show somewhere. We also watched 'The Magic of Jimmy Brown' magic show and then walked down to watch the US's only diving horse. You had to be there for that one ... Some of the design of the places was a bit dated, like the 'safari tour' on a train behind a covered old tractor past a heap of plastic animals etc around the bitumen trail. Dinner was at Caldwell House just a short walk up from our resort. I had scallops stuffed with clams etc. Beautiful and the fact that they were stuffed should indicate that they were a size above Tas scallops. It only took three to make a meal. Understand they were from Boston.
Wednesday was supposed to be fine but the overnight rain continued a bit later than it has to date so we had fog around the mountains. Decided to keep going on our planned cruise around Lake George on the Mohican. This was the only trip that goes around the full Lake, just under 5 hours to cover the navigable part of the 32 miles of the Lake and back. Got to see a lot more of the Lake and the development around it. Most of the Lake edge has been sold off over the years so it is hard to access the Lake edge from the land unless you own or are staying at a place with water frontage. Apparently water frontage is currently going for at least $10000 per linear foot. Most of the old mansions have had most of their associated land holdings sold off due to the value. Many of the islands on the Lake are either privately owned with homes etc on them or owned by NY state. Most of the latter are designated either day picnic areas or camping usage - about $18 per night. Money and popularity of place has had an impact. They are now building up on the slopes around the Lake so even the natural areas around the Lake don't have unspoilt vistas. There is one island on the Lake owned by the Nature Conservancy(?) which is kept totally natural and no usage is allowed. Natural areas here are densely packed forests of a fairly uniform dark green. Found it makes a sameness so not great for photography. That sameness made the length of the tour a bit long, although going back through the original millionaires row shows that this has been a resort area of choice for over a century now. Lake was also busy with their boats today. An area where those with money come to enjoy and relax! We saw a flock of Canadian geese during the tour. This is only noteworthy as there has been a near total absence of wildlife, other than a few flies, seen in this area. Presumably a factor of human development but even the lack of bird life is strange. There is also a large climate variation which may have some impact. In winter, the Lake is under around 3 foot of ice which is also why most of the businesses and homes here are only open over the summer months.
Thursday saw us heading up the mountain just behind the township, Prospect Mountain. Was $6 per car which gave us access to the road, 3 overlooks on the way up, the parking area just below the summit and then a shuttle bus (complete with video commentary) for the final part of the trip to the summit. Reward was views down over Lake George, albeit obscured by trees in many parts. The afternoon was spent back at the Resort where the kids had a great time playing on the playground and in the pool.
Malcolm
Summer Camps
Donna needs to tell us about Olivia and Kieren's experiences at summer camp over the holidays ...
Thursday, August 2, 2007
Nothing much ...
Pretty well sums up what we've been doing the past couple of weeks. Just living in America and doing what you do when working etc.
Can report that an American 'cookout' is pretty much identical to an Aussie BBQ. Went to both two weekends ago. Aussie one on the Friday night was at home of some friends from the Embassy, mainly AFP and Defence related families. American one was at a neighbour's who invited those from a couple of houses in all directions around him in the street. Apparently he does this a few times a year. Was very appreciative of being invited and we all had a good night. Met a few neighbours we hadn't met before including one who has that wonderful invention of the teenage daughter who babysits! Their Hawaiian holiday overlaps with our upcoming holiday but hoping to provide her with some employment when we return.
Other than that it has been work, summer camps, playgroups etc while Donna has been busy planning our trip away which we'll post details of as we do it, assuming we have Internet access on the road. Getting accommodation was problematic as most of the US and Canada are on holiday at the moment, being the middle of summer and school holidays. Their equivalent of our Christmas to Australia Day period.
Malcolm
Can report that an American 'cookout' is pretty much identical to an Aussie BBQ. Went to both two weekends ago. Aussie one on the Friday night was at home of some friends from the Embassy, mainly AFP and Defence related families. American one was at a neighbour's who invited those from a couple of houses in all directions around him in the street. Apparently he does this a few times a year. Was very appreciative of being invited and we all had a good night. Met a few neighbours we hadn't met before including one who has that wonderful invention of the teenage daughter who babysits! Their Hawaiian holiday overlaps with our upcoming holiday but hoping to provide her with some employment when we return.
Other than that it has been work, summer camps, playgroups etc while Donna has been busy planning our trip away which we'll post details of as we do it, assuming we have Internet access on the road. Getting accommodation was problematic as most of the US and Canada are on holiday at the moment, being the middle of summer and school holidays. Their equivalent of our Christmas to Australia Day period.
Malcolm
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